French novelist and poet Henri Murger once declared: “The first duty of wine is to be red. Don’t talk to me of your white wines.” That’s not too bad. This Pessac-Léognan checks both boxes. Unfortunately, it doesn’t hold up against oenophile and English wine trade legend Harry Waugh who declared instead that: “The first duty of wine is to be red, the second to be a Burgundy.” Drat. The man must have known what he was talking about though. He fathered twins at 70 and died at 97.