Château Pavie’s been branded the most controversial chateau in Bordeaux and its 2003 vintage is the stuff of legends. It was so polarizing that it pitted the two most powerful wine critics against each other – Robert Parker called it “sublime” while Jancis Robinson thought it “ridiculous”. Just picture them in a Merlot-stained cage, furiously jabbing at each other with ah-so corkscrews. Of course, this is second label Esprit de Pavie, an innocent bystander only slightly sullied by all the vitriol. It’s still exciting by association though, and I can’t wait to open it. A nice little sliver of drama can be fun – even if it’s just in a wine glass.